Benares, Mayfair

One of my favourite things about my birthday is having the excuse to go out for a really nice meal with my family... not that needing an excuse has ever really stopped us... but still, birthdays are an excuse to go even bigger! This year we decided to break the mould and, instead of going for Japanese (a firm family favourite), we decided to try somewhere completely new. After much um-ing and ah-ing we settled on Benares. This decision was followed by both excitement and apprehension on my part - because whilst we eat out quite frequently, we never go out for Indian food. While travelling around the north of India last summer, I began to understand that I had been overlooking it's potential - which is an amazingly diverse cuisine, full of an exciting depth of flavours. However, I was unsure as to how the rustic authenticity of India would translate into a Michelin starred restaurant.

Benares serves 'modern Indian cuisine with a contemporary British twist', and is lead by Atul Kochhar - the first Indian chef to have earned a Michelin star. And deservedly so. Benares successfully creates an opulent atmosphere from the moment you arrive, thanks to the palatial doorway and the elegant floating candles. We were all a little baffled by the cocktail list as every drink contained at least one ingredient that I couldn't even pronounce, but nevertheless the eenie-meenie-miney-mo tactic paid off as both the cocktails that I tried were the perfect balance of sharp and sweet. Even the salted almonds in the cocktail lounge were irritatingly moreish. But zingy cocktails and tasty nuts are not enough to win over my family when they're hungry! 


Despite all of these positive signs, when we sat down I was still harbouring a few nerves about how the meal would turn out. This was until we received the amuse-bouche. At this point all my fears subsided and I relaxed in the knowledge that this was going to be a delectable meal. It being a few months ago I couldn't even tell you what it was - all I know was it was a mouthful of joy.

The Karara Kekda Aur Salad (Crispy Soft Shell Handpicked Crab, with Corn Spring Roll, Peanut and Apple Salad) was delicious, if not slightly unnerving due to the crab having been kept so perfectly whole! The Jal Tarang (Tandoori Roasted Hand Dived Scottish Scallop, with Textures of Cauliflower) was even better in my opinion. In fact, I would go so far as to say it was probably the best scallop I've eaten - certainly the biggest anyway! The only thing in the whole meal that I found disappointing was the Jal Murgi Aur Chana Chaat (Home Smoked Gressingham Duck Breast, with Pear and Spring Onions). I love duck, but this particular starter was just... well, pleasant. And when you compare pleasant to the genuinely divine scallop, it seems rather bland. It did at least look very appealing, but unfortunately the lighting in the restaurant was not conducive to good food photography and so the few pictures I have included really don't do the dishes justice.

For the main course I'm ashamed to admit that I went for the safe option and ordered the Chicken Korma. But I can tell you, this was no ordinary Chicken Korma. It was an inspired modern take on the Indian classic. The chicken was cooked to perfection; unbelievably succulent and with an intensely deep, smokey flavour that is only achieved from cooking in the Tandoor. The sauce, which atypically came in a jug on the side, bore no resemblance to any curry I've eaten before, even in India. It was exquisite, and the accompanying biryani was so delicious that I could have eaten a plate of it on it's own. I can only hope that I get the chance to go back to try the Tandoori Macchi (Tandoor Baked Minted John Dory, Crispy Pak Choi, Smoked Tomato Chutney) - which no doubt will be equally arousing.

The real surprise for me was the desert, which, personally, I have always thought to be the black sheep of Indian cuisine. Being a peanut butter addict, of course I ordered the Chocolate Peanut Butter Tube, and of course it was yummy. But actually, what set it apart from all the other chocolate-y peanut butter-y deserts that I've ordered were the details; the Jaggery Cake, Cumin Marshmallow and Sugar Cane Ice-Cream. They were distinctly Indian flavour combinations that you just wouldn't find anywhere else, which consequently makes them brave flavour combinations. The use of spices like cumin into something sweet was very unusual, and probably not to everyones taste, and even though I don't think I would cook with it at home, it worked, and it was refreshing to enjoy something completely new.
The other desert, which we ordered in the recommendation of the waiter was, again, a new experience. It was sort of like an Indian take on a fruit compote with a creamy yoghurt and a sweet crunchy pistachio shard. Apart from being beautifully presented, there was a good balance between the creamy, sweetness and tart fresh fruity-ness, whilst remaining subtle and with the right amount of texture from the Burfi.

Overall, the service was very good, and heightened by the little touches such as the pre-desert 'magic trick', and the birthday surprise that they brought me with a variety of delicate Indian sweets. The atmosphere in the main dining room was a bit underwhelming, but the food was very good and made me want to go back to try more dishes. In my opinion, it has set the bar high for Indian cuisine - for all modern fusion restaurants for that matter, by demonstrating that taking a clever, innovative approach to flavours can create something really exciting and special.

Rose and Raspberry Bhapa Doi, Pistachio Burfi

Chocolate Peanut Butter Tube, Jaggery Cake, Cumin Marshmallow and Sugar Cane Ice-Cream

BENARES

12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, Mayfair, London W1J 6BS