The Final Flourish - A weekend at Lucknam Park

The approachability of The Brasserie was a refreshing change of atmosphere after the formality of the The Park. Not to say I didn't enjoy grandeur of it all, but sometimes it's nice to be able to enjoy your food whilst totally immersed in a good hearty natter, without feeling conscious of you're (lack of) propriety... maybe that's just me - my laugh is always inappropriately loud! 

The Brasserie is reached through a central courtyard leading to a charming pergola that is beautifully lit up after dark. Due to the bitter cold I didn't stop long to take in the sights, but the brisk walk was enough to make an impression and create ambiance. The Brasserie is simple, modest and modern with an open view of the kitchens. This is a characteristic that always starts a restaurant off in my good books; partly because I like being able to have a sneaky-peek at the chef's at work, and partly because a kitchen that is able to run in view (and earshot) of it's customers has to be well run.

So it was off to a good start, with a selection of warm, freshly baked, tasty breads. What stood out was that they offered a choice of olive or rapeseed oil to accompany the bread, and for me, this simple gesture says a a great deal about the restaurant. It is the small details that will set you apart from all the other brasseries, and I have to say the subtle flavour of the rapeseed oil with the balsamic transformed what could have been just another focaccia into something to remember.

To start I went for Garlic roasted Tiger Prawns with potato gnocchi, tomatoes and rocket. I'm always drawn towards prawns on a menu, but speaking form experience a dish like that, built on simple, bold flavours, will go one of two ways; completely bland or utterly delicious... and in this case the risk paid off (talk about living life on the edge)!
Sadly, I was so hungry by the time it arrived, and it looked and smelt so appealing, that I forgot to stop long enough to take a picture. The same applies to the Country style pork and pheasant terrine, spiced apricot chutney and toasted sourdough - it was gone before you could say 'divine'. Such a shame because it really was a beautiful thing to behold, and an even bigger treat to consume.

Round two was slightly more of a mixed bag. The Market fish and potatoes (both cooked as you wish) with crushed peas and tartare sauce was simple but beautifully cooked and very tasty.
On the other hand, the fact that there was burger on meant, of course, that I had to order it, and I did so with high hopes given the understated success of the starters. However, the rump steak burger with cheese, homemade bun, sweet pepper relish and onion rings, whilst aesthetically pleasing, was actually rather disappointing. The meat was over-cooked for my liking, leaving it rather dry and, without slathering it in the relish, pretty dull.

Nevertheless, the meal ended on a high with two, truly exceptional deserts. I hardly ever order chocolate puddings as I find they are often disappointing, but the warm Valrhona chocolate brownie with caramel sauce and buttermilk ice cream was nothing short of perfection... and I do not use that word lightly. Gungy in the middle with just the right amount of crunch on top, and the perfect balance of strong cocoa, salty caramel and creamy ice cream.
Furthermore, the glazed apple tart with caramelised brown bread ice cream was a revelation, so much more than just an apple tart. The warm, really light, crisp puff pastry contrasts perfectly with the unusual flavours of the ice cream, but without loosing the intensity of the apple. Genuinely two of the best deserts I have had in while.

To conclude an opulent weekend of fine dining and spa treatments, I decided to go for something different for my last breakfast. Despite my fears that it wouldn't live up to the previous morning, Lucknam Park delivered once again. Even though I had sworn that this time I wouldn't touch the pastries, I quickly polished off the whole basket with only the smallest pretence at restraint (there was a chocolate swirl, what was I supposed to do?!).
The fruit salad was excellent, perfectly balancing sweet and sharp, and with every single fruit bursting with natural flavour. To follow, not that I needed any more food at this stage, I opted for the Full West Country Breakfast because... well, why not!